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Installation - Instructions, Suggestions & Hints

 


This information can be downloaded as MS Word Doc here (80k)

BUILDER / HANDYMAN FIXING INSTRUCTIONS

(PLEASE READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS / HINTS PRIOR TO FIXING)

Panel Size:                                                     1800mm wide (horizontal)
                                                                     600mm  high  (vertical)

Cover:                                                            1.08 sq metres

Thickness:
Fibrous Cement Sheet:                                     ~ 4.5mm
Brick Face (approx):                                         4.0 - 5.0mm  (Standard / Smooth Brick)
Total Thickness (approx):                                 ~ 9.5mm

Weight:                                                          Standard panels weigh approx 12 kilos


FIXING OF BRICK PANELLING - GENERAL GUIDE

PLEASE NOTE:      one edge of all panels (lengthways) have a mortar line, the other has the bricks flush against the edge. The edge with the mortar line edge MUST go to the top.

  • The first row of panels to be installed is the bottom row. It is essential this row be level. To achieve this we suggest using a string line or similar. Nails can be driven along the string line to allow the support of the panels whilst achieving the straight line needed. It is this first row of bricks that will ensure the second and third row etc will be inline, so it is vital time is spent getting the first row correct.
  • We suggest the use of “Y” or “T” nails from a nail gun be used to fix the panels to the wall. The nails are to be driven THROUGH THE BRICKS on the panels – NEVER NAIL IN A MORTAR LINE.
  • Other alternative fixing items that can be used are self-embedding screws or nails (must be nail punched slightly to a depth lower than the face of the brick.)
  • Generally we do NOT suggest using adhesive on the rear of the sheets as this can make the sheets not sit flush against the wall. However, if you feel confident that a small amount of adhesive can be applied along with a flush finish, there is no technical reason as to why you cannot.
  • When cutting a sheet, a MASONRY disc in a circular saw / angle grinder / bench saw or the like is suggested. These are relatively inexpensive and the results are as good as a diamond tip blade and the like. It is suggested that cutting is done from the rear of the sheet to avoid little pieces of brick flying off and potentially hitting you.
  • All corners are to be mitered at 45 degrees.
  • All nail holes and corner gaps are filled with provided filler at the end of the job – See “FILLING.”

 FILLING & PAINT

  • The filler is supplied ready to use. DO NOT ADD WATER or in any way interfere with the mixture. The filler will be the exact colour of your brickwork as we take out some of this material during the manufacturing stage from your brick batch.
  • The filler MUST be kept in a cool dark place. NEVER LEAVE IN THE SUN. The filler will begin to dry as it comes in contact with air – much like wood putty etc. We supply the filler in sealed plastic bags. It is suggested the filler be taken from this and put into an ice-cream container or similar and then use a smaller container such as an old butter container or similar so only small amounts are being used at any time.
  • The filler should be given a quick mix then applied using a putty knife or similar and it is easiest to brush away any excess whilst the mixture is still soft.
  • IF TOO MUCH FILLER IS USED – DO NOT WORRY – IT IS EASILY SANDED TO A FLAT FINISH.
  • Also supplied with all jobs are a small bottle of the paint we used to create your mortar colour. This can be applied to any cuts in the sheet you may have made to seal edges or touch up and marks made in the mortar paint.

FIXING PANELS ONTO NEW FRAMEWORK

  • We strongly recommend that when applying NEW DURABRIC to new framework that builders / bracing ply (6-8mm) be installed first. The reason for this is two-fold. The first is to give the panels added strength in between the studs but more practically it enables the installer to not have to worry about where a sheet ends and there being a stud to nail into. It is imperative that the ends – especially the corners of the brick panels be fixed well to the wall so having bracing ply allows for nails or screws to be inserted in any position knowing that there is material behind it. Also, the ply gives the brick panels much greater support should they be hit from the outside – perhaps with a wayward cricket ball.
  • If no bracing ply is used, or wanted, the installer must ensure there is a stud to screw into at every end of the panel.
  • It is recommended that sissalation be installed under the bracing ply (or even external to the ply) to ensure waterproofing. If no ply is being used, obviously sissalation is suggested to be placed over the frame first prior to installation. It is also recommended to apply a small bead of building gap sealant along each edge of all abutting panel edges to again ensure waterproofing.
  • Using expanded metal plaster cornice over corners can be of great use. It gives the installer 100% surface contact for the NEW DURABRIC sheets to be nailed / screwed or glued into place for extra strength.

 

 

IMPORTANT NOTE: - SEALING THE SHEETS CORRECTLY

 

All sheets MUST be painted or bagged to seal them. The panels MUST be painted adequately to prevent water from seeping into them and making the sheets soft or brittle. As our panels are made from normal cement sheet, water must be kept out to avoid them becoming water logged and soft. Failure to do this may cause problems with the panels.

 

DURABRIC PANELS MUST ONLY BE PAINTED / SEALED WITH ACRYLIC PAINT / PRODUCTS. FAILURE TO DO SO MAY CAUSE THE BRICKS TO BECOME SOFT IF ENAMEL PAINT PRODUCTS OR THINNERS ARE USED.

FIXING PANELS TO EXISTING OUTSIDE / INSIDE WALLS

The existing wall covering such as iron, weatherboard etc may be left in place. This helps as an aid to insulation. It is needed to create a framework over the existing wall using 40mm x 20mm battens.

Firstly:           Horizontal battens should be secured across the wall at approx. 600mm
                  above and below each other.

Secondly:    Vertical battens which support the panelling are then nailed to the horizontal
                  battens. These vertical battens must be spaced with exactly 300mm centres.

Thirdly:       Make sure the vertical battens are in line with each other by using a string
                 line. Pack out any battens that are not touching with strips of plywood or
                 similar.

Where panels meet vertically, 70mm x 20mm battens are best used, so as the two panels are meeting on one piece of timber, therefore preventing as much movement as possible.

GLUING BRICK PANELLING DIRECT TO EXISTING WALLS

Brick Panelling “may” be glued direct to any smooth surface such as existing plasterboard, gyprock and even brickwork. Any good quality wallboard adhesive will do the job. Several nails should be used in the panel to prevent slip until the adhesive has dried. For brick walls use 25mm long masonry nails. After glue has dried, punch nail heads below the surface of the brick and fill as described above - See "FILLING" above.


 

New Durabric. Factory 1, 30-31 The Concord, BUNDOORA 3083, Victoria AUSTRALIA
Phone 03 9467 2883 · Fax 03 9467 1061
Melways REF 20, B2